201. What kite should you buy? Types. Colors

There are two large families of kites that we use for kitesurfing/kiteboarding on water: Ram air kites (we call them “foil” kites at times) and kites with an inflatable frame. Foil kites are fun to ride, they are very reliable and virtually indestructible, and they are very predictable and move slowly while up in the air, or at least slower than the kites with an inflatable leading edge because foil kites are generally thicker and they take their time to cut through the air. Foil kites are usually flying deeper in the wind window, making it more challenging to ride upwind. Yet the main challenge with foil kites comes in the picture when they fall from the sky and you need to relaunch them. Because foils do not have the frame to support the canopy, these kites can fold while sitting on the water and it could be tricky to relaunch them from this position. Also, since there are no inflated tubes, foil kites cannot serve as a flotation device, and when things go wrong you will have to rescue it, not the other way around… So, the short verdict about foil kites: have it as a second or as a third kite after you mastered most of the kite control skills.

Kites with inflatable frame are the best to learn with. They float and are easier to relaunch. They can be used as a rescue device and help you swim to safety. They react faster to your input via the control bar. Kites with inflatable leading edge fly more out in the wind window making it easier to ride upwind, which is very useful for beginners.

There are several shapes inflatable kites come in. The pioneer of this sport is the “C” kite. Kite lines are attached directly to the canopy of C kite and projected area is much smaller than the actual size of the canopy. Now, what is “projected area” of a kite? Projected area is basically an effective area of the kite, the area that is active and that is being used by the wind to propel you, to pull you forward. When Kite is in the air its canopy is not flat but rather has parabolic or even circular curvature to it, and, as you may guess, various parts of the canopy are affected differently by the wind. Panels at the apex of the canopy (around the center strut) carry most of the load, and the tips of the kite are loaded less. C kites use tips of the canopy only for steering and to transfer the pull from the central part to the kite lines. Because C kites have their leading edge shaped as a flat letter “C” (two dimensional, single plane geometry of the leading edge) it is a bit more challenging to re-launch them when they sit on the water, face down, downwind from you. Some models of “C” kites have a 5^th line to make relaunching process a bit easier and to support the center of the leading edge while in flight, so the kite will not deform during a strong pull. The fifth line should be seen rather as a convenience, not as a redundant complication to a control bar. C kites deliver very consistent power and pull, or, put differently, de-power range is rather limited, which is not as safe as in “bow kites”. Before I jump into “bow kites” I’d like to mention that there are other types of kites available on the market: Delta, Sigma, and Hybrid. These are transitional designs and they belong somewhat in between “C” kites and “bow kites”. Bow kites stand out and lead the game in a number of ways. Bow kites have their leading edge shaped in 3D with the tips bent backwards for a number of reasons. One big benefit of this shape is a much better re-launch-ability, because kite will be rocking on the water when you drop it face down, so, it is easier to maneuver it into a flying position. Another big advantage of “bow kites” has to do with their bridal system. Outer lines are no longer attached directly to the leading edge, instead, there is a bridal system that distributes the pull over the entire length of the leading edge. Bridal system keeps the kite more opened increasing its projected area, making “bow kites” more efficient. And probably the main advantage of bow kite has to do with the safety: bow kite have (usually) an enormous range of de-power. When you slide your control bar all the way out and trim the center lines you can reduce the pull of you kite down to 10% on certain models. Yes, you can drop up to 90% of kite’s power if you need to, and this makes “bow kites” very, very safe. As a side effect of this de-power range “bow kite” of a given size can be used in a broader wind range, so, you can ride in various wind conditions with the same kite and you will need fewer kites to cover all weather conditions. The only disadvantage of “bow kites” I can think of is their price, other than that it’s a win-win design and recommend you start with a “bow kite” if you can. “Bow kites” design is by far the most popular in kitesurfing world today.

Bow, Delta, Sigma, and Hybrid kites all have bridal system to support their leading edge, this is where a new term was coined: SLE – Supported Leading Edge. When it comes to choosing a color of your kite there are two concerns you should be aware of. First, in the beginning, while you are learning to steer the kite by the feel, you will be looking at the kite most of the time (if not directly, then with your peripheral vision) and you would benefit greatly of you kite has a contrast color and does not blend with the sky. Pick the color that is easier for you to see while in flight. Second concern is about leading edge being too dark. Dark colors absorb sunlight and heat up rather quickly, raising the air pressure inside the bladder. I air pressure goes too high the sleeve that holds the bladder may explode. Another scenario comes into play when you drop a kite with high temperature and high pressure in the leading edge on cold water. Cold water will cool the air inside the bladder and the pressure may drop as well, making relaunching somewhat more complicated.